Mastering Large-Scale Laser-Cut Wood Art: My 8-Step Process

Creating large, detailed laser-cut wood art is a mix of digital design, machine precision, and hands-on craftsmanship. I recently finished one of my biggest projects yet—a multi-panel barn scene made from maple veneer—and it pushed every part of my process.

I wanted to break it down step by step, not just to show what worked, but also the challenges, problem-solving, and little lessons learned along the way. From the first concept to the final clear coat, here’s how I take a complex idea and turn it into a finished stained-glass-style wood piece.

Step 1: Design and the Power of AI

Everything starts with the image. I usually begin in Canva, mainly because of its huge library of royalty-free photos. When I don’t have the perfect reference photo or a hand sketch, this gives me a strong starting point.

From there, I move into Google AI Studio and start refining—prompting, tweaking, and reworking the image until it matches the mood and composition I’m after. I also use it to help generate clean line art, which becomes critical for the laser stage.

Step 2: Digital Cleanup and Node Editing in LightBurn

Once I have the image, the real work begins. In LightBurn, I trace the artwork and separate it into cuttable layers. Tracing is never perfect, so I often run multiple trace passes with different settings, then combine the best parts of each.

That means a lot of node editing—manually cleaning up lines, closing gaps, and smoothing curves. This is slow, detailed work, but it’s what makes the difference between a frustrating cut and a clean, precise one.

Step 3: Cutting, Engraving, and Machine Reality

For this project, I used quarter-inch maple veneer for the artwork and Revolution board for the backing.

One thing I can’t stress enough: clean your laser. Ten minutes of lens and mirror cleaning can save hours of ruined cuts.

Because the barn scene was too big for one pass, I split it into three panels. I also used a custom grill screen so I could lift all the cut pieces at once and move them without disturbing their layout.

Warping became an issue during one long cut and caused a failure when the wood lifted and caught the beam. Clamping the material flat is now non-negotiable for large jobs.

Step 4: Organizing the Chaos with a Layout Board

Hundreds of small pieces can turn into a nightmare fast. I transfer everything onto a temporary layout board (sometimes just a flattened cardboard box) that mirrors the final image.

At the same time, I engrave the full line art onto the final backing board. That engraving becomes my assembly map later and saves an incredible amount of guesswork.

Step 5: Staining and Shading

This is where the piece really comes alive.

I’ll often use four or five shades on a single area to create depth and lighting. For some sections, like roofing, I switch to resin pigments instead of traditional stain. I also sand back areas after staining to create weathering and texture.

Working on the full layout lets me see how colors interact across the whole scene and adjust before anything gets glued down.

Step 6: Assembly (Gluing Everything Down)

Once the pieces are dry, they move to the engraved backing board. This is one of my favorite stages—less problem-solving, more steady, almost meditative work.

Each piece gets glued into its exact position, following the engraved guide. On a project this size, it’s not a quick job. The full barn scene took an entire day just to assemble.

Step 7: Clear Coating and Protection

To protect the wood and deepen the colors, I apply three to four coats of gloss clear.

Large panels create their own challenges, especially with ventilation. For this one, I had to improvise a temporary exhaust setup using buckets and garbage cans just to manage overspray and fumes. It’s also the stage where every stray hair, dust speck, or glue string suddenly becomes very visible—so cleanup before spraying is critical.

Step 8: Framing

Although not shown in detail in the video, framing is what pulls everything together. It gives the piece strength, hides edges, and makes a multi-panel work feel like one unified artwork.

Key Lessons I Took from This Build

• Hide the seams. When working in panels, I design overlapping elements that cross the panel boundaries so the final image reads as one continuous scene.

• Don’t be afraid to redo sections. If an area like grass or siding looks flat, I’ll go back, break it into smaller parts, and restain for more texture.

• Keep everything flat. Warped material can ruin hours of work in seconds. Clamp it during cutting and store it flat afterward.

Final Thoughts

For me, large-scale laser art is as much about problem-solving as it is about creativity. From refining an AI-generated concept, to hours of node editing to staining, gluing, and clear coating, every step builds on the last.

My process, in simple terms, is:
Design → Edit → Cut → Transfer → Stain → Glue → Clear Coat → Frame

It’s a long road from digital image to finished wall piece—but that journey is exactly what makes the final result so satisfying.